Our journey continues to another pilgrimage site in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the ‘Saint Marys of the Sea’, which is a small fishing village located on the French Mediterranean coast. Once every year, it transforms into a cult centre, as people come here in the belief that Mary Magdalene and her closest friends and family came to France. And she was dark skinned or black.
The first thing you notice about the Black Madonna in the church of Saintes-Maries-de-le-Mer is the kindness and compassion in her face…and also the fact that she is life size! I saw men gently touch her face and women adjust her clothing to smooth it in place. I witnessed a teenage girl kiss the Madonna like a friend. This statue is very accessible to the public. About 3000 gypsies come from all of the world on May 24-25 to participate in a procession for the Festival of St. Sarah (many riding on white horses) to wash this statue in the sea.
The story is that St. Sarah has not officially been canonized as a Saint so she is not to be carried directly from the church to the sea, so St. Sarah is dressed in beautiful robes and carried outside from a different location. The following day, the statues of the 2 Mary’s ( Mary Salome & Mary Jacobe) are also carried to the sea and washed.
From the outside, the church does not look like a church at all. The present church was built between the 9th-12th centuries when pirates were attacking villages and cities along the coast. The roof is encircled by a rampart walk and lookout slits are in the church walls at regular intervals. The church also served as a refuge for the city and there was even a fresh-water well inside.
Upon entering the church, there is a single nave 50 ft high. To the left is an old pagan altar, possibly used to sacrifice bulls in the worship of Mithras. The statues of the 2 Mary’s are located above the altar where the bones of the 2 Mary’s were said to be found in the exact location of the present church. The Saint Sarah statue is located in a crypt with banks of lit candles delivered by worshipers daily. Outside there is a group of gypsy women trying to sell religious relics. There is also the ability to buy access to the roof of the church to survey the town and surrounding area.
Inside it is peaceful and calm.
So just to be clear, this Black Madonna is not the Virgin Mary or Mary Magdalene. She is Saint Sarah, who was the Egyptian servant of the Virgin Mary’s sister. There are many legends and rumours about Black Madonnas and many of these have been perpetuated by gypsies, art historians and authors. Some of these legends include:
- The servant girl Sarah is a “Christianized” substitute for the Indian goddess Kali, whom the gypsy are said to worship.
- Saint Sarah is actually the daughter of Jesus and Mary Magdalene
- All Black Madonnas in France represent Mary Magdalene
- The Black Madonnas were originally the statues of Isis. Worshiping Isis was very popular during the time of Christ.
- Artists deliberately created black Madonnas to illustrate the text from the Song of Songs, which reads, “I am black, but beautiful…” (Song of Songs 1:5)
We all interpret ancient legends and folklore according to our own belief system. History, Science, Art, Religion and our local family traditions help define our world. Most people will believe what they need or want to know. Is that not the definition of ‘Faith’ ?
How Douglas feels after walking the streets of Saintes-Maries-de-le-Mer and learning that our next pilgrimage tour will be in search of the skull of Saint Mary Magdalene.
I picked up this lovely black Madonna to add to my new collection. Kids, if you are thinking about b-day gifts for me this year, a black Madonna would be a good choice!
