Marseille is an amazing city. You can call it Marseille or Marseilles, but always call it amazing. In the 4th century BC, it was one of the major trading ports in the world and has been France’s primary port since the late 1400’s.
There was a time when Marseille had the worst reputation of any French city, maybe it was television shows and movies like “The French Connection,” or the huge number of immigrants that migrated to the city without thick wallets and purses, or maybe because it had been passed over from large government improvement projects, or the art world being fascinated with Paris, but this has been changing the last several years and the transformation continues and pride grows. Alas, the Corsica mafia, drug crime and the resulting murders are still higher than they should be and way higher than Paris.
When we return to France one day, this would be one of the cities we would like to spend more time in. There is a creative energy in the streets that is hard to describe. Plus we got to practice Bikram Yoga at this lovely studio: http://bikramyogastudiomarseille.com/
When you arrive via the highway into Marseille, you will see older poverty sections of the city with graffiti and peeling paint, and you will also see the roadways and other cornerstone pieces of city infrastructure are being brought into the future. If there had been a modernization earthquake in the city, its epicenter would be the harbor and from there the rings of 
change echo outward with redone churches and monuments, new transportation options,
world class museums like the MUCEM (Musee des civilisations de l’Europe et de la Mediterranee)(opened in 2013) merging the old Fort Saint-Jean with new modern buildings.
The next ring would be the old factory buildings that are either being remodeled or replaced, adding new housing options (albeit not low income) and office spaces. In will be a challenge for the city to maintain character and diversity as the transformation continues to touch the lives of more and more of its people.
We start our photographic journey with the center, the harbor. You can walk around it, you can buy a ticket to the tourist train (every city that attaches tourists seem to have one), drive under it in a car, or take a ferry from one side to the other in a really short 5 minute trip.
On the hill overlooking the city, the port, and the sea is Notre-Dame de la Garde, a Catholic basilica. It was built upon the foundation of an ancient fort, and there is an annual pilgrimage every year on August 15th, Assumption Day. The bronze statue of the Virgin Mary at the top of the bell tower is covered in gold leaf and watches over sailors, fishermen and the entire city. There is a copy of The Shroud of Turin and a smaller statue of the Virgin Mary that looks like it could be a Black Madonna! The church contains some unusual ‘ex-votos’ including model boats, life preservers, war medals and even football shirts given by players and supporters from the local team. The basilica is bordered by the Bay of Marseilles to the west the mountain range(s) Star Massif to the north, Sainte-Baume to the east, and the Massif de Marseilleveyre to the south….this is the best view of the city.
Our pilgrimage tour continues as we take a short drive down the hill to the Abbye Saint Victor- probably the oldest Christian place of worship surviving in France. The Abbey was founded in the 5th century on the tomb of St. Victor. There is a huge black Virgin in the crypt which dates from the 12th century and is made of walnut wood. The crypt contains some really interesting sarcophagi – some are Roman, with decoration from pagan mythology, which were re-used by the monks. The Abbey is very simple compared to Notre-Dame de la Garde because it was stripped of its treasures. Many of the relics were burned, the gold and silver objects were melted down to make coins and the building itself became a warehouse, prison and barracks.
A major pilgrimage takes place every year at Candlemas (a celebration 40 days after x-Mas). In the morning of February 2nd a procession starts from the Old Port to the Abbaye. The pilgrims carry long green candles symbolizing the eagerly awaited green shoots of spring. The black Virgin stored in the crypts is dressed in a green cloak and presented to the crowd. The archbishop then blesses her and a mass begins. Afterwards, everyone goes to a nearby bakery to buy navettes, http://www.fourdesnavettes.com/ long thin biscuits flavored with orange water and intended to resemble the boat, or navette, that brought Lazarus, Mary Magdalene and other saints to Saintes Maries de la Mer in Provence (post about this site here: https://www.travelerblues.com/destinations/france/saintes-maries-de-la-mer/ )
Marseilles 191 million dollar MUCEM is first class. It was built on an old pier on the waterfront and connects to the historic Fort St-Jean. The architecture and design alone will blow you away and the rooftop cafe by famous celebrity chef Gerald Passedat is a lovely way to pass the afternoon, but we came for the Picasso exhibit.
The exhibition has 270 pieces and is built around themes in his paintings: traditional Spanish hats, pigeons, ex-votos, the circus and, of course, bull fighting, You can also see how these themes were played out as Picasso experimented with different medium like woodworking, textile, ceramics, sheet metal, silver-smithing, and recycled objects. Basically, Picasso would meet other artisans in his travels and then set up shop with them to develop an expertise in a particular medium outside of painting. We both have a renewed fascination with his work after viewing this fabulous exhibit.
and…this iron work is like a magical flying carpet revealing the sun and the sea
The iron work is pretty amazing.