There is so much to do in the City of Light and just not enough time or energy to see and experience all of the interesting sites in just one week and a half. It would take months to explore all of the museums, shops, gardens, architecture and restaurants (there are 15k). There is truly something for everyone in Paris. Here is a recap of our final days:
Have you ever been to a museum that had such high security that you felt like you were in a prison? Possible this is an intended effect when you visit the Mémorial de la Shoah which commemorates the tens of thousands of Jews who were murdered during the Holocaust and the complexity of returning people to the homes and restoring their rights and their property. Very well done with detailed photographs and memorabilia but also very sobering bringing to light Vichy France’s collaboration with the Nazis.
The Jewish Quarter of Marais has a ton of great restaurants and the most famous is L’As du Fallafel (closed on Saturdays)- some say the best fallafel sandwich in the world. We ate there and it was excellent, but the best fallafel I’ve had is still at Haleiwa Farmer’s Market every Thursday in Waimae Bay.If you’re weary of French food a Brooklyn Deli fix, Schwartz Deli, would be a good choice in the neighborhood. A must-try is the Reuben sandwich- recommend splitting it.
Some street art on my walks to Bikram Yoga Paris- https://www.bikramyogaparis.com/ great studio with amazing instructors and in a great location behind the Pompidou museum.
We’ve never seen Bruce Springsteen in concert and were able to secure tickets when he opened up a 2nd day in Paris. Unbelievable heart & soul performance last night by E Street Band and The Boss. See Bruce play guitar, see Bruce sing, see Bruce play harmonica, see Bruce dance, see Bruce crowd surf from the middle of the hall back to the stage, see Bruce marry a couple on stage, see Bruce perform pretty much non-stop for three and a half hours! Damn! He is 66 years old! The River… and only in Paris would you have a champagne bar at a concert venue.
The Seine is the heart of this city. It’s where friends and lovers meet, where you come to relax and picnic after a long day or sit and contemplate life. I wish I could say folks were having a proper picnic with french bread, cheese, and foie gras but the snack of choice appeared to be sharing a bottle of wine or beer and potato chips.
Last year 45 tons of ‘love locks’ were removed from the Pont des Arts bridge over the Seine after parts of the bridge collapsed. They were moved to more stable ground & the tradition continues. Story at: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/02/world/europe/paris-bridges-locks-of-love-taken-down.html?_r=0 We enjoyed a lovely glass of champagne sitting on its banks as it drizzled one evening. I’m wondering how the Aussie Lovedale Long Lunch champagne glasses wound up being in the cupboard of our Paris Airbnb?
After being in Provence & Lyon, the street markets in Paris look pretty shabby…unless you walk over to the Bon Marche. Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche was the first department store in the world opening in 1838. It is organized into 70 different houses, each displaying some of the best things in the world. This is the shoe house…
We had a delicious lunch in the wine & spirits house, but not after we wandered around all over the the upscale designer houses looking for a restaurant or the Epicerie.
Next time we should look at a map- C’est la vie!After lunch, it was time for some art, so the next stop was the Rodin Museum and Jardins. The museum/mansion was actually his home and studio in Paris. Although he died rich & famous, his work at the time was considered too sexual and raw. Most of his best known sculptures are in the garden but inside there were amazing works by Rodin, including some of his old paintings as well as sculptures by his student and lover Camille Claudel and some of his apprentices. Here are some snaps:
The painting is of Rodin in his studio along with some of Camille Claudell’s amazing work. She started off as Rodin’s student and then became his assistant, muse, model and lover. She was 18 at the time- 24 years younger than Rodin.
The museum also houses two VanGogh paintings owned by Rodin. When Rodin refused to leave his common-law-wife and rejected Camille,(Some say she was a better sculpture than Rodin) she was inconsolable and went insane for some time. Like VanGogh, she was committed to an asylum in Provence. Despite her protests and repeated efforts of her doctors to convince her family that she was no longer psycho, she remained locked up for 30 years until her death. Kinda crazy- I’m not making this stuff up.My favorite building in Paris the Opera Garnier. I’m not quite sure why I feel this way but maybe it has something to do with Chagall’s ceiling…
Security was high at the year’s Bastille Day celebration in Paris because of the attacks in November. We watched planes in the sky, parades on the march and explosions in the sky.
What is Bastille Day? On July 14, 1789 a bunch of pissed off Parisians stormed the Bastille ( a fort & prison for political dissidents) in hopes of stealing a ton of ammunition. The Bastille stood as a symbol of the hypocrisy and corruption of the aristocratic government – controlled mostly by nobility and clergy. It signaled the beginning of the French Revolution. In addition to the monarch, the Catholic Church was a primary target. Many churches were looted, taken a part piece by piece, or turned into storage facilities or prisons. We had been wondering why there were so many statues missing heads and limbs at many of the churches we visited in France.
As the USA celebrates the 4th of July and the French celebrate Bastille Day, our hearts go out to the people of Nice on this day. Sometimes we feel guilty having the luxury to travel and enjoy so many beautiful places in the world when so many people are in pain. To everyone we know or will meet in the future here is a prayer for you… May you feel safe and protected like a child in her mother’s arms. May you feel happy and peaceful. May you feel healthy and strong. May you live with ease.
After 2+ months exploring France, our tour of French Gastronomy and amazing art has come to a close and it’s time to explore the tiny island of Malta. Our hosts in Provence told us they have the worst food in the world. Bring it on! We could use the detox…early a.m. flight in the morning.
P.S. Douglas has become a croissant ‘snob’ and Lisa has a Pokemon Go obsession…