Our time in beautiful Aix en Provence is moving too quickly. Bourgeois-bohemian chic is how Aix is often described. The honey colored buildings, beautiful architecture, amazing art museums, and vibrant markets are images that will stay with us forever…plus seeing a Virgin Mary statue on the corner of so many buildings. [Ed. Plus wall to wall university students from all over the world.]
We visited the Musee Granet which was originally an art school that Cezanne attended. There was a Rembrandt, many Picassos, a few Cezannes, Rubens, and works by Giacometti were the highlights. The most interesting part of the Musee Granet was a satellite extension, the former Penitent chapel converted to an art gallery called The Jean Planque Collection. From 1955-1972, Jean Planque worked for an art gallery in Paris and over the years collected over 100 19th & 20th century master paintings and drawings- many of them gifts from friends and artists. He also used much of his sales commission to invest in works by Picasso, who he had befriended in 1960 when Picasso was 50 yrs old and feeling like he was no longer part of the art ‘scene’ in Paris.
Stopped by to view the Turner exhibit at the Hotel de Camount- no photos allowed inside but the garden was lovely. We really liked his older works where he was starting to break with the classical styles. http://www.caumont-centredart.com/en/node/1351
Some memorable meals included lunch at a Corsican Bistro, Le’ Contrepoint ( yummy duck in the bowl) and a seafood feast at Toinou. Corsican Beer est tres bon! http://www.toinou.com/aix/restaurant
and Douglas had a pretty good burger with an interesting double bun at http://www.cornerbistro.fr/
When you stay in a place for almost a month, you have the luxury of eating like a local which means buying food from your favorite butcher, baker, cheese shop, and patisserie. Here are some of our go-to places in Aix:
Butcher:
Baker: ( see our post about this amazing place at:https://www.travelerblues.com/destinations/france/__trashed-5/
Cheese…
Patisserie ( for Croissants)
Patisserie for everything else…including that chocolate covered meringue mentioned in the prior post
The local markets at Place Richelme & Place des Precheurs in old town Aix… “And, as for the oil, it is a masterpiece. You’ll see.” Before dinner that night, we tested it, dripping it onto slices of bread that had been rubbed with the flesh of tomatoes. It was like eating sunshine.” ― Peter Mayle, A Year in Provence
Douglas’ morning routine: Coffee on the patio with a NOLA style summer jacket and the NYT on phone…Yes, it was unusually cold every morning in Provence. But in the afternoon, it was pool time for this guy.
Sometimes we were weary tourists and just wanted to relax at the villa and have a home cooked meal. Thanks to Douglas for doing most of the cooking & BBQing!
…and sometimes we just wanted to chill and do nothing but soak in the warmth of the Provencal sunshine.
We will miss these streets that smell of fresh baked bread, blooming jasmine, and chestnut wrapped cheese.
I meant to say keep it coming, not ” keep it.”