We are finally settled in Aix in Provence at our Airbnb villa for the next few weeks. No more 1 night stands! Douglas calls hopping from one city to another ‘1 night stands’ and it is taxing on the body & psyche. The days are long and the nights short. Folks eat dinner between 8:00-9:00 p.m…we’ve had some reservations for 7:30 p.m. (late for us) and we have been the first people in the restaurant! During the summer, the sun sets around 10:00 p.m. and rises at 5:30 am. There is so much to see and do in Provence that we are starting to plan our next few weeks in advance…not really something we were expecting. So how big is France? A bit smaller than the state of TX.
Provence has been glorified by artists and writers but it is not just one place- it is an entire region with its own cuisine, vineyards, olive groves, fields of lavender, amazing sunlight, art museums, Cathedrals and tranquil charm. This is Cezanne country, and his mountain, that he painted over and over gain, is our landmark and navigation tool as well as our view from the villa.
If Provence were in TX, it would include Austin, San Marcos, San Antonio, and the areas half-way to Houston.
We love hanging out in Aix. There is an authenticity to this area that is hard to explain. It is hip without being too trendy, cool without being grungy and has an international feel without being snooty (probably because it is a University town of 45k). Aix is a ‘kind,’ livable city and was once the capital of Provence. The Romans were drawn here by the thermal baths in 123BC and a spa is still present today on the same ground: http://www.thermes-sextius.com/ The streets seem familiar, reminding us of the French Quarter in New Orleans.
The main drag is the tree lined Cours Mirabeau with beautiful fountains and lovely hotels, apartments and shops lining the streets. In years past, it was full of cars and buses, but most of the street has been made into a pedestrian mall. Sadly, there is an Apple store located on one of the corners of La Rotunda where the fountain in the photo below is located. That seems to be as bad as it gets.
Aix has a market in town every day! We’ve never tasted strawberries and apricots like this. The fruits & vegetables are bursting with energy and flavour.
Lunch at Le’ Patio http://www.lepatio-aix.fr/fr was delicious!
With 45,000 students, texting coeds, a historic town, a motor-scooter and a BBQ pit sitting next to the street, things here can get a little juxtaposed (see photo below).
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Make sure you stop at a favorite hangout of Cézanne, Zola, Picasso, Pagnol, Piaf, and Camus, Brasserie Les Deux Garçons, http://lesdeuxgarcons.fr/en/home/ and have a cocktail and people watch for hours.
